THE FOUR-STAR SOUP KITCHEN

Posted on Wednesday 27 December 2006

Michael Ennes
“He’s good, but sometimes I think the experimentation gets in the way of good taste,” said Jose Terrero, 54. Last year, Mr. Terrero made a series of what he called inappropriate financial decisions, including not paying his rent. He now sleeps at a shelter. He has eaten at several New York City soup kitchens, and highly recommends Mr. Ennes’s food.

Mr. Ennes, a former English major who reads Thomas Paine and wears a black and white neckerchief with a turquoise clasp, might be the best soup kitchen chef in New York City. On Thanksgiving, when most of the cooks at the city’s other 470-some soup kitchens simply roasted turkey, he prepared “turkey four ways,” including one with mango-ginger glaze and tropical fruit stuffing.

There will be no canned green beans or bologna sandwiches. Mr. Ennes insists on homemade stocks, oils without trans fats, organic peanut butter and local produce when he can get it.

On the Soup Line, Endive and Octopus (New York Times, via Slog)


1 Comment for 'THE FOUR-STAR SOUP KITCHEN'

  1.  
    nancylynn
    30 December 2006 | 7:53 am
     

    i just saw a think about this on the NBC morning show and was so moved…this is awesome. and futher inspires me to pursue my culinary dreams. God Bless him!

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